Lucky Librarian In Japan!

Lasting Impressions

2007-01-17T11:42:00.000-08:00

Perhaps the important question related to cultural exchange is what permanent impressions visitors carry home. Now, weeks after my JFMF educators’ trip to Japan, several impressions linger: the consistent and friendly courtesy to foreigners (especially from people on the street when asked questions); the magnificent art of shopkeeping (from street vendors to Ginza department stores); people’s pace in Tokyo (whew), the positive energy present in elementary school classrooms (verging on cheerful chaos sometimes!); the “green” practice of eliminating waste and disposables such as paper napkins (which also seems to minimize general littering); a certain unease at the child-centeredness of the educational process and post-educational years (I am not sure the United States has a similar habit of healthy introspection); a self-consciousness about nationalism and Japan’s world role (we seem less cautious in exhibiting our nationalism); and yet a fierce loyalty to family and nation (I found it admirable in a relativistic world). I am obviously neither an historian nor a scholar; I am a teacher/visitor who delighted in becoming better acquainted with a complex culture with ancient roots and contemporary verve, grateful to be given a stellar experience. I take great pleasure in sharing it with my school community, friends and family. The interest the Japanese community at my school has shown in my trip and impressions has delighted me, as modest as I feel about my brief experience. The very best result has been the obvious joy Japanese children in my library classes show when I conduct a Japan-based curriculum (smiles and shouts of recognition, giggles of familiarity, and always a willingness to interpret a sign or a situation I might be trying to explain). Perhaps that’s the bottom line: creating familiarity and understanding by building bridges between cultures and human experiences, celebrating our similarities and honoring our differences.

200 Teachers; 200 Stories

2006-10-20T15:02:00.000-07:00

On our last full day in Japan, our ten city groups came together to share reflections on our travels. Two hundred American teachers, from all fifty states, expressed gratitude and continued awe even as our journeys drew to a close. Each of us had a favorite story (the host family who fulfilled unspoken wishes, the shopkeeper who solved a gift problem, the new teacher friend who was on hand at a moment of uncertainty, the hilarity of confused results from sign language), and we all had opinions about what we saw in classrooms and byways. Overall, the generosity, kindnesses, thoughtful conversation, and curiosity about our lives in the United States that we experienced from the Japanese was valued by all of us, and definitely made us want to return for a longer look at Japan. As we wrapped up with "city reports" (parts of which were a tad silly due to twenty newly-acquainted adults spending 24/7 together for a long time), we pledged to share as much as possible of our experiences with those at home, in our schools and families. What an enormous privilege it was for each of us to spend nearly three weeks in Japan as guests of the government. What a responsibility to convey what we learned! None of us is an expert but we are ready and willing to share what we experienced. Be warned: ask and you shall hear!

Symbols: Chrysanthemums & The Emperor

2006-10-18T07:15:00.000-07:00

The other day I took a walk to the Imperial Palace area in Tokyo. While the Imperial Palace, home of Japan's emperor and imperial family, is open to the public only two days a year, visitors can walk around the gardens. Japan's imperial family is the oldest hereditary monarchy in the world, dating back to the sixth century BC. The family crest is the kiku -- chrysanthemum. I saw chrysanthemums all over the city of Tokyo -- in flower boxes, on pillars and posts, on the 50 yen coin, embroidered on handtowels alongside an image of the main government building called the Diet, shown in real life below with a visiting school group. Japan is a parlimentary political system with two chambers in its governing body, rather like the United States Congress. The major party in the Diet appoints the prime minister. The emperor has no direct power in the government but is a "symbol of the state", playing a largely ceremonial part in the nation's life.

Rooftops

2006-10-18T01:46:00.000-07:00

This will be a short and sweet blog entry. While today we heard lively and fascinating reports from all ten "host city" groups, too much was said and shared for me to digest before our final banquet tonight. So I will simply show some pictures of rooftops that are characteristic of residential, castle or temple architecture in the region I have been. I love looking at the graceful curves of the tiles and eaves. The round design on the end of an edging tile is often a symbol for the family in the house. As I understand it, most of the roof tiles are made of sand and clay; the most-used colors are earth tones, blue and orange. They are distinctive indeed, and very beautiful!

First Business, Then Bonsai and Baths

2006-10-17T07:24:00.000-07:00

Monday morning we headed for the local community center to meet with school parents, representatives of the Ikeda-city PTA. What an interesting session! We were able to ask all sorts of questions about the role of the parents’ organization in Japanese schools and about parent-teacher relationships, at least in this community. And in turn the Japanese parents had many questions about our schools and classrooms, their first one being “Are teachers respected in the United States?” Predictably, that got a variety of responses, but in general I think teachers felt respected within our schools but as a profession we struggle for adequate acknowledgement. Having spent the previous week in public schools in the community, we were in a reasonably good position to reflect on issues presented, though in no way did we feel like experts. In general, Japanese parents seem to have more limited access to teachers and classrooms during the school day, and perhaps less of a feeling of input to the workings of the school. They had lots of queries about discipline, about students with special attention needs, about whether parents can make individual requests for teachers and so on. We American teachers realized that our schools vary widely in such things as class sizes, style of our principals and parents’ roles in our schools. I felt very proud to be from a community where respect -- student to student and student to teacher -- is valued greatly, where the parent-teacher organization is active, and where we receive generous support.

The rest of the day was for bonsai, bathing, and bonding with our group of ten travelers as we near the end of our trip. We traveled to the northern section of our host city, into the mountainous park area known for chattering monkeys who beg for money, put coins in the vending machines but are then stumped when trying to open the cans! We spent time at a beautiful bonsai shop, learning from the proprietor how bonsai (“pot of tree”) are started and maintained. I found myself wondering if a Brookline window would be a suitable place for bonsai. Hmmm…

We then headed for Fushiokaku, a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn), featuring outstanding “public” baths and great food. After our somewhat modest hotel stay, this experience was a real treat. Slippers and robes were provided (which guests wear the entire time). We were served green tea and cookies on a low table in ours rooms immediately upon arrival. By dinnertime our room had been transformed to a sleeping area with futons and wonderful puffs. Most of us headed directly for the hot baths after tea and again after supper. The baths were outside under the sky and, later, stars; there were warm baths, warmer baths, and really hot baths! Dinner was a proper banquet. We had fun getting to know our roommates better than ever, sort of like summer camp. The whole experience was a superb remedy for many hours of meetings, walking, and riding buses. Our Japanese-style breakfast this morning (Tuesday) was amplified by American choices including green salad and pasta, which I skipped knowing that all too soon I will no longer wake up to seaweed, rice and warm soup. Before breakfast I took an early morning walk in the residential mountainside neighborhood, dodging bicycles, motor bikes and cars on the steep narrow road and enjoying watching kids trundling off to school with backpacks, just like kids at home.

By noon we were on the bullet train back to Tokyo, for one last chance to visit the favorite spots we had discovered in this huge and amazing city. Tomorrow, the ten JFMF groups, which have spent the past ten days in different parts of Japan, will come together to report on their adventures. I am really looking forward to hearing about everyone's experiences! Our enthusiastic group rehearsed our presentation (I am a samurai) while on the train today but we got too boisterous and had to cut our rehearsal short out of respect for our fellow Japanese travelers.

A Golden Day

2006-10-15T15:08:00.000-07:00

Today (Sunday) my host and I were up and off, after an American breakfast of eggs, bacon, toast (with blueberry jam -- a favorite of both Noriko and me), fruit and yoghurt. I was delighted to be anticipating a trip to Kyoto. On our way to the Hankyu train line we walked through the nearby residential neighborhood and then down the length of the Ishibashi shopping street, a typical colorful, varied pedestrian avenue of small local shops carrying every imaginable product -- seaweed, rice crackers, clothing, sandals... My kind of heaven, such fun to look. I often take a long walk on Sunday mornings at home, and the pleasure was the same here today: watching the world wake, with some people heading for work but most seeming to feel the weekend leisure. (Be warned: I plan to do a separate reflection soon on shopping in Japan; it is a major activity, at least in the cities where I have been.)

Our travels today took us to major notable sites in Kyoto. There are more shrines and temples per square foot than you can possibly imagine. The torii gate near the Heian Jingu was brilliant in the sunlight. I took a moment to record the translation at the entrance to the Buddhist temple, perhaps the most zen moment of my trip (which was overall more active than reflective): (This) "Is the road to respectable affability toward Chionin temple; Is the road to encounter Master Honen; It is also the route to obtain the way of Buddhism. For the old, the weak, women, children are lead to brightness, peaceful, and the meaning of life by collecting wisdom from the Buddha. To free tiresome beings, to let them gain dignity, and to accept the true happiness ingenuously. This is, Buddhism." Tiresome beings, we surmised, means people fatigued by life's cares. I felt renewed and hopeful.

I don't have time to tell you about the Golden Pavilion (nickname for Rokuon-ji Temple), former home of a shogun ("big boss of many warriors"). I will just say that it was shining brightly in the late afternoon sun, capturing the dignified splendor of much that is Japan. I need to return to Kyoto and linger longer.

As I left to return to Hotel Crevette, Noriko shook my hand and said "Kiwo tsukete" (take care). I felt very welcomed by her and by her husband. I resolved to look into the home stay program in our community, a wonderful way to welcome international visitors.

Tonight we will spend at a ryokan, a traditional inn, before returning to Tokyo tomorrow. Another adventure in store!

At Home in Ikeda-city

2006-10-15T05:00:00.000-07:00

I am back from two days of a home stay with Sotaro and Noriko Kohiro in their lovely home in Ikeda-city. Mr. Kohiro is a retired business man; Noriko takes care of their home and enjoys singing in a women`s chorus. Some years ago, as part of his work in the textile business, they lived in New York and Los Angeles, their two daughters attended American schools, and thus they are very familiar with American life. We had a great time making observations about America and Japan, ranging from speculations about serious topics such as our military forces and North Korea to whether Matsuzaka will be bought by the Dodgers, the Yankees, the Mariners or the Red Sox! I hope the Red Sox, as his reputation in Japan is truly stellar. That led to a discussion of sports salaries. I learned that premier Japanese sumo wrestlers and others have their salaries adjusted according to their performance regularly, not obtaining multi-year packages that sometimes don't seem related to performance. Hmmmm......

Our first stop Saturday afternoon was at the local public library. Mr. Kohiro demonstrated the catalog and reserve system that allows him to be, proudly, the first reader of new books that arrive at the library. It was fun to see a book by Anthony Browne front and center, as well as a mind-boggling collection of over 300 kamishibi (traditional Japanese story card books, presented as theater). Only a librarian could be fascinated by the classification system that was used (almost Dewey but not quite). In the series of American biographies done in comic book form, I found Brookline's favorite son JFK, and my host was suitably impressed that he was born in our town. The library was busy as could be; Mr. Kohiro asked the head librarian where kamishibi might be purchased. We were given the name of the premier bookstore chain, Kinokuniya, which had a nearby branch. I located (with Kohiro's advice regarding the best traditional tales) a half dozen excellent kamishibi to bring back to the Lawrence library, with second grade particularly in mind. Next: a long uphill walk to Kiyoshi Koujin temple, stopping for absolutely delicious soba (buckwheat) noodles at a small shop along the way.
Even the tea was made of buckwheat, a sort of toasty flavor I enjoyed a lot, and we watched soba noodles being made by an enthusiastic young man -- quite a process. There were many locations on the temple grounds to request a blessing. I asked for help with headaches, and fire protection for our home (the special purpose of this temple) as well as personal blessings for those I love. Surely I will continue in good health despite the abysmal fortunes I drew each time I paid 100 yen! I guess happiness and health can't be bought...

Noriko served a wonderful supper Saturday night -- beef, carrots and potatoes as well as "scattered sushi" -- rice with shrimp and vegetables, and we shared pictures and stories of our families. Yes, I did manage a satisfying Japanese bath before bed, following the training instructions we received from our wise and forthcoming guide Keiko-san (wash and rinse completely first, outside the tub, then enjoy your soak in the tub, and don't pull the plug because other family members will soak after you). I couldn't figure out how it would work until I was actually doing it; it worked because there was a drain in the bathroom floor, a fact that made all the difference. I guess cultural puzzles have a way of working out if you pay attention and ask questions and aren't too afraid to seem stupid! I tumbled onto a futon bed on a tatami mat floor, in the Japanese living room (zashiki) available to guests, and slept soundly. A beautiful temple had a place of honor in the zashiki, containing remembrances of Kohiro's mother and other ancestors.

Home Stay Here We Come!

2006-10-13T15:27:00.000-07:00

This morning (Saturday) each of us heads off on a home stay, for two days, with a local family. I had the chance to meet my host the other night, and I am looking forward to this opportunity to visit with his family. We will walk around their neighborhood this afternoon and visit the public library; tomorrow we will go to Kyoto or Nara. I will probably not post a blog for several days, but I recommend you take a look at the map of Japan to the right, or check out what time it is here and imagine what I might be up to. Please note that I have activated the "comments" link at the end of each blog, so please let me know your thoughts and comments about anything you have read! While I am a neophyte in Japanese matters, I will certainly attempt to respond if I can to any questions. Meanwhile, be well.

Junior High School

2006-10-13T14:34:00.000-07:00

Friday bright and early Mr. Akihiro Ichida welcomed us to Ikeda Junior High School, encompassing Grades 7-9 in American terms but described as Grades 1-3 in Japan. This particular junior high is affiliated with Osaka Kyoiku University (which we visited the other day), regularly receives student teachers and is considered a pioneer for new teaching strategies in Japan. At the beginnning of each day of formal meetings for our group, one of us serves as speaker for the day and presents our group to our hosts. Today was my day, and I offered the hope that in exchange for the kindness of the school in welcoming us, their teachers would one day visit our schools.
We received gifts celebrating the 60th anniversary of the school, and learned about the four pillars of education guiding the school: subject study (9 subject areas), moral education, special activities, and interpretive learning. Classes are 40 in size (our hosts maintained, and we agreed, that that is too many!). Every student does individual research -- in order to explore, express (articulate one's own ideas about a subject) and present a topic. For 480 students, there are 22 regular and 4 part time teachers, all of whom are extremely busy people. The student council is active, and voluntary after school activities are packed. Building international understanding is a major goal of the school; they maintain a regular exchange program with Brisbane, Australia, as well as with schools in neighboring Asian countries. Language was a challenge in Australia (which even I could sympathize with), but the trips are always successful! Students also go on 2-3 day excursions within Japan, to increase their understanding of Japanese culture, including especially peace education efforts in Nagasaki and Okinawa. The heart of our day was attending and fully participating in classes.
In English class I was invited to tell about my school and my life in Boston (including the Red Sox of course, and at lunchtime one young man came over to show me his Red Sox mug). I was honored that the teacher specifically provided a map of the United States, a rare occurrence (most of the maps we see are, of course, of Japan and Asia, or world maps with Asia appropriately at the center).
Students presented language quizzes in English: "I am an animal. I bark when I speak. What am I?" In science, the teacher did a masterful demonstration of opposing forces.
In the media center, students were creating web pages, in English, of notable sites in Osaka, the URL of which I will obtain so we can view their travel advice back in the States. Following our time with students, we met back with administrators and teachers, sharing perspectives on education. We had many questions -- about cram schools, about student discipline, about nurturing young people for productive lives. I can't capture the extent and nature of our discussions here but it was most interesting!

Several of us ended the day with a trip to Sensi-chuou on the monorail -- had a take-out supper from the food floor of a large department store, caught a band on the plaza, and headed home.

Comments on Customs

2006-10-13T00:54:00.000-07:00

Question: Many, many Japanese adults ride bicycles -- to work, to do their shopping, to meet friends. Why do you suppose bicycles are used so frequently? I will share my own thoughts in a later blog entry!

Someone once said, "If you have been in Japan for two weeks, you can write a book. If you have been there for two months, you can write an article. If you have been there for twenty years you can write a paragraph." I understand completely the sense of this quote. Japan is a fascinating and very complex culture, and one which I have entirely enjoyed experiencing. I am listing here, with humility, some customs I have observed, and I welcome your comments!

Bowing when greeting, whether it is an attendant welcoming a passenger onto an elevator or family friends meeting for dinner.

Always, always ending a helpful exchange with “Domo arigato” (“Thank you”).

Keeping to the left on a stairway or sidewalk, echoing the traffic pattern of cars on the streets. Our guide explained today that this custom began when samurai warriors, whose swords rested on their left sides in order to be drawn by their right hands, stayed to the left so they could be ready to confront those to their right.

Always waiting for the green light to cross the street. No one jaywalks!

When a purchase is made, credit card, cash and change are placed on a small tray between the purchaser and clerk while the transaction is completed.

Storing dripping umbrellas in a waterproof sheath when entering a building.

When asked directions, the always-courteous citizen is willing to help and walks with you toward your destination until it is clear you know where you are going.

Removing street shoes to wear slippers in homes, museums or other special places.

Carrying a handkerchief, not for blowing your nose but for using as a handtowel after washing one’s hands.

Holding up two fingers in a “victory” (or “peace”) sign when saying “Hi!” for the camera.

Leaving bicycles unlocked, with the knowledge they will be there when you return.

What else might you know about Japanese customs??

Itabashi Elementary School -- What a Day!

2006-10-12T03:10:00.000-07:00

Well, this may have been my favorite day so far in Japan (though it would be hard to decide for sure). We caught the bus at 7:15 a.m. heading to Itabashi Elementary School, one of eleven public elementary schools (Grades 1-6) in the Ikeda-city district. Thus we were right on hand as children started to arrive. We were greeted and we greeted in return: “Ohayo gozaimasu! Ohayo gozaimasu!” Here is George, an art teacher in our group, giving handshakes, an American custom as opposed to the customary Japanese bow we usually return.

Once a week the entire student body of 498 meets in the playing field outside (weather permitting) for an assembly; we visitors were the stars of today’s gathering. All day long we felt the warmth and enthusiasm of the students and teachers. The principal, Mr. Fujiwara, gave us a quick tour of the school building (which had many of the aspects of Lawrence School but with a different spin, which I think I’ll need to save to explain when I return) before we started on our day of class visits and full participation in school activities. I first went to class 3-1 (one section of third grade) where each child introduced him or herself in English, and stated what they especially enjoyed. Many, many students declared baseball, though oranges were a second favorite! I was very glad to be able to show them pictures of Fenway Park, Lawrence School and my home and family. They exclaimed loudly when they saw our family’s red Victorian house, as there is really nothing like it in Japan. Then I attended a second grade class for several subjects – reading in Japanese, a test on kanji and math. There were many similarities with a school day at Lawrence but also differences. There are cubbies in the classroom, plus cubbies in the hallway for a change of clothes for sports and a separate cubby for musical instruments (a small keyboard for second grade). The daily schedule was posted, along with class duties.
The students themselves served hot lunch in the classroom, and they then cleaned up the entire classroom, moving desks around, sweeping and wiping all the surfaces. Other grade levels cleaned hallways and bathrooms! Teachers remained in the classrooms for lunch, and stayed with students for recess and sports, too. It was great fun to visit a class doing calligraphy (part of the language program), one practicing sumo,
several fantastic music classes (instrumental and vocal) and one home economics class where boys and girls were ironing and sewing. I was overjoyed to get a chance to spend time in the library, a welcoming place visited each week by each class, and talk with the library teacher. She was delighted to receive a copy of Make Way for Ducklings (in English) as a token of my visit.

We ended the day by asking the principal many questions about his school. In response to the question “Of what are you most proud about your school?,” he replied instantly that the school receives the most heavily handicapped students, and other students are considerate, gentle and loving, always with open hearts for those who are handicapped. The faculty was quite young overall, and he told us that after five years teachers must change schools, as part of their growing experience. We also learned that the sixth graders climb Mt. Fuji during their final year, and that fifth graders plant, weed and harvest the crop of a rice paddy over the course of their year.

It is not possible to convey the energy and enthusiasm present at Itabashi Elementary School. It reminded me a great deal of Lawrence School!

High School Daze

2006-10-11T14:40:00.000-07:00

On Wednesday we visited Ikeda High School -- a very lively place. The hallways were filled with student art; at recess a CD of Whitney Houston filled the air; there were a few snoozing students in English class (!); judo was a favorite activity; and the lunchroom was as noisy and energized as BHS. Clearly lots of learning takes place, too, and one of the highlights of the day was a long conversation with teachers about our roles as teachers. One nifty part of the day was seeing the art teacher demostrate calligraphy, which he insisted we each try (it's hard!). Here are some pictures of a high school set among the hills of Ikeda-city.

Official Day of Conversation

2006-10-10T15:22:00.000-07:00

Today our group of 20 American teachers was officially welcomed, in a City Hall ceremony, by Mayor Kaoru Kurata and Superintendent Kiyoshi Murata from the Board of Education of Ikeda-city. Each gentleman delivered a heartfelt speech in carefully-prepared English and we each introduced ourselves in equally carefully-prepared Japanese::*Watashi wa Massachusetts no Elizabeth Browder desu!* Our spokesperson for the day extended our greetings and received a gift on behalf of our group. Then, with the help of an interpreter, we exchanged questions and observations -- about the nature of the national curriculum and local goals in education, about our roles as teachers in modern fast-changing cultures, about similarities and differences in Japanese and American schools. The earnest sincerity of our mutual desire to understand and then create an international conversational bridge was remarkable and very touching. Japan and the United States have major similarities as developed nations, and also differences in traditions and customs and historical experience.
In the afternoon we traveled to a beautiful hilly area of Osaka prefecture (prefectures are similar to our states) to Osaka Kyoiku University. We were greeted by the President, received gifts to each of us (including a university t-shirt, of course!) and heard extensive and interestng presentations from four professors and a panel of a dozen students. The subjects ranged from goals and curricula of teacher training programs in Japan to special challenges of programs such as special needs. Questions and answers were fielded by an able interpreter who was masterful in catching and conveying the substance and subtleties of our exchange. The day was topped off by a dinner of okonomoyaki -- a Kansai speciality of heavenly grilled foods which you have to experience to believe -- with Matt and Olivia *Mrs. Bernow's son and his friend, both teachers of conversational English in Osaka. No pictures today due to nature of Internet connection. Maybe tomorrow!

Samurai & Noodles

2006-10-09T14:52:00.000-07:00

Today we went about the business of getting acquainted with Osaka and Ikeda-city. Our first official stop of the day was Osaka-jo, a towering castle built on huge granite rocks, some of which weigh 120 tons. This was the showpiece of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, a warrior and statesman who unified Japan in the 16th century. The modern buildings of Osaka stood in such contract to the castle! We were lucky enough to see a re-enactment, on the castle grounds, of the civil war between Kyoto and Tokyo, complete with costumed samurai and incredible drumming. I wished Lawrence School 6th graders could have been there… Our bento box lunch was punctuated with loud cannon fire, after which we were joined in the lunchroom by samurai themselves. Next we visited a museum honoring the invention of instant ramen (“CupNoodles”), a notable landmark in Japanese cooking, transforming the lives of women here and around the world! A great pleasure today was walking through residential nieghborhoods; many futons were being aired over apartment balconies on this crisp fall day. Our day continued to be full of contrasts, as we next visited the peaceful Kureha Shrine (cleansing our hands and mouths with spring water before ringing the bell to wake the gods), and then a local art museum. Back to hotel to do laundry and collect my wits and get supper from a local convenience store. Sometimes you just need “down” time and this was it.

Tokyo to Osaka to Kyoto -- Whew!

2006-10-09T14:30:00.000-07:00

On Sunday, the big group of 200 JFMF teachers divided into our host city groups of 20, and ours took the bullet train (Shinkansen) southwest to Osaka, and then a bus to Ikeda-city. Our route took us past Mt. Fuji, Japan’s legendary volcanic peak that is often shrouded in clouds. We were lucky enough to have a great view of the beautiful, symmetrical 12,388 foot mountain so familiar from Japanese ukiyo-e (woodcuts). We sped through the countryside comfortably and luxuriated in treats from the snack cart (I especially recommend the “mushroom mountains” -- chocolate tidbits that remind me of Nestle’s Crunch). Settling into our new hotel in minutes, some of us headed off to Kyoto, braving a train route with which we were unfamiliar. Once in the lovely Kyoto (the first capital city of Japan), we climbed uphill to Kiyomizu-dera, a unique and beautiful Buddhist temple built into the hillside.

On this three-day holiday weekend the huge wooden veranda and many terraces were filled with people but it was amazingly quiet. We walked through the temple grounds until after sunset, then winding down the hillside. For contrast, we hit the bright lights and narrow bystreets of Gion (the geisha district) for supper.

I got the giggles on the train ride back to Ikeda-city. We had three fat travel guidebooks, five maps, and four brains and we were still confused about where to get off the train! Once again, patient Japanese citizens smiled politely and coached us through our travel dilemma.

A Very Serious Day

2006-10-09T04:02:00.000-07:00

The most moving and profound session of our first week was without doubt learning about peace education efforts taking place now in Japan surrounding the events of August 1945 when atomic bombs were dropped by the United States on the Japanese cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. It is a sad irony that this session was taking place just as North Korea was announcing its intentions to test nuclear weapons. As painful as it is to learn in detail about these past events, we know that peace education efforts nurture the seeds of a better-educated world and assist us in our understanding of the effects of nuclear weaponry during World War II and today. We heard from three people who have particular relationships to the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Koji Ikeda is 89 years old, Chairman of the Yokosuka Disabled Veterans Association and a survivor of the bombing of Hiroshima. Twenty-eight years old in 1945, he was holding his young son in his arms, in his backyard, at the time of the bombing, not understanding, of course, the nature of the blast that caused a great whiteness around him. I will not attempt to convey in this blog the depth of emotion in his straightforward story, told with a fact-defying gentleness. He shared every moment of that day – his feelings, the injuries of his wife (who was out of the house obtaining ice for their icebox), the aftermath of the bombings in the days, months and years following. Tomoko Yanagi, a senior high school teacher in Hiroshima and a second-generation bomb survivor, spoke of growing up with a father who was 14 years old at the time of the Hiroshima bombing and subsequently dedicated his life to nonviolence and peace education. She claims to have only fully understood the meaning of his efforts when she became an adult (her father spoke little of his actual experience in the bombing in order to protect his daughter from the discrimination against persons who may carry radioactivity in their bodies); she wishes to carry on her father’s message in order to increase people’s understanding of the effects of using non-conventional weapons. She herself lives daily with the impact of radioactivity on her health. Migiwa Ishitani is the daughter of a man who, at age 13, survived the Nagasaki bombings, became a professor of ethics and a Quaker, was continuously involved in peace education, and opposed the military tax in Japan. It was a privilege and a humbling experience to hear these inspiring testimonies. I pledged to myself to learn more about how much about the August 1945 bombings is included in Brookline’s Facing History As Ourselves curriculum. Please take a moment to explore the two links in the righthand menu explaining more about peace education in Japan.

Koji Ikeda

Sunny Saturday in Tokyo

2006-10-07T17:41:00.000-07:00

This will be brief, as we are catching the bullet train to Osaka momentarily, but I wanted to share scenes from a gorgeous day (our first sunny blue sky day in Japan) spent learning how to ride the subways and exploring the streets of Tokyo. Three of us explored diverse neighborhoods -- from Shibuya to Harakuju to Ginza -- taking in many nifty sights and sounds. Here are some photos -- CDs of my favorite Japanese jazz artist Makoto Ozone (at Tower Records), people on the streets (all friendly), a bridal couple, the "food floor" B1 of a big department store, boys heading off for "Little League," a quiet backstreet. It was a truly glorious day in Tokyo; everyone was glad to be out and about!

They're Playing Our Tuna

2006-10-06T01:20:00.000-07:00

At 4:30 am this morning, Friday, Sue (a computer literacy teacher), Liz (a library media specialist), and I hopped into a taxi headed for the famous Tsujiki Fish Market. Rain was pouring from the pre-dawn skies, and the taxi driver would have thought we were slightly crazy if this destination were not a "must-see" for Tokyo visitors. It was hard to tell just what to do and where to go when the taxi driver shooed us out of the car, pointing off into the night, but we soon found our way into brightly-lit market stalls filled with every kind of fresh fish. Vendors were rushing, motorized carts were whirring in every direction, people were wrapping fish in precise packages, blocks of ice and styrofoam containers were stacked everywhere. We knew that the wholesale fish auctions were to begin at 5:30, though we weren't sure where. We wandered among beautiful seafood displays, trying to identify the goods. Opening a door labeled "Visitors Pass Here" we entered a huge frosty room filled with enormous fish -- tuna, we learned from a courteous local man, from South Africa and the Philippines -- which was to be auctioned off soon. Buyers were inspecting each frozen fish, rubbing small bits of tuna between their fingers to see if it contained the right amount of oil for their tastes. The sky was getting light as we hurried back to our hotel for hot baths and breakfast in order to be in our seminars by 9. Here are pictures to give you the flavor of the market and auction which provide tons and tons of fish to Japanese consumers every day. It was amazing.

Good Luck and Bad Luck

2006-10-05T03:17:00.000-07:00

The good fortune of a visitor in Japan is to have delicious food to eat -- and it always looks pretty on the plate! Even an American-style breakfast of cheese omelet, yoghurt, fruit and coffee looks pretty in Japan. And the view from the 40th floor of my hotel added to the enjoyment. Also pretty to look at is a tempura luncheon, eaten seated on a tatami mat floor.

A special good fortune for me today was to meet Yuri, former ELL teacher at Lawrence, for supper. We exchanged gifts, a Japanese custom when meeting friends you haven't seen for a while, and then she took me to a very authentic Japanese restaurant in the Akasaka neighborhood of the city. Yuri chose 8 or 9 dishes from a huge picture menu -- radish salad, many different parts of chicken roasted on skewers, dumplings, fried tofu -- which were absolutely delicious. We talked and talked about Japanese culture and parted with the hope that we could see each other again before I leave Japan. She asked me to bring her greetings back to Lawrence School, of course!

The bad fortune of a visitor to Japan is sometimes delivered at a temple, when for 100 yen one can shake a numbered stick out of a can, select a fortune from the correct drawer, and see your fate. This morning we visited Senso-ji temple in an old part of Tokyo. My fortune was terrible (my house would soon burn down, my marriage fall apart, and my employment would end), and in order to cast it aside I tied it to a rack of bad fortunes! Fortunately, the rest of my day was wonderful.
The students in the picture below were still hoping for good fortune.

Today: Education & Arts

2006-10-04T06:24:00.000-07:00

If Tokyo has 12,000,000 people within its city boundaries and Boston has 600,000, how many times larger is Tokyo?

Tokyo. Big. Dense. Bustling. Tall. Neon. Clean. Mostly modern. “New York on steroids,” someone once said. “It's an enormous amount of space but it explodes upwards…” reflected actor Bill Murray. Tokyo is the world’s most populated city, topping the list, according to a recent almanac, of United Nations-defined urban agglomerations* of over 10 million people (Tokyo 35 million, Mexico City 18.7 million, Sao Paulo Brazil 17.9 million, New York City 18.3 million, Mumbai India 17.4 million, Los Angeles 12 million).

What a varied program day we had today. This morning we heard a thought-provoking address by the President of the National Institution for Academic Degrees in Japan, who reflected on the need to consider the personalities and ethical development of student learners in a system of education that has, historically, heavily emphasized academic achievement. This afternoon we were immersed in Japanese traditional theater – kyogen, kabuki, Noh, and Japanese classical dance –distinctive expressive forms. We were able to look closely at Noh masks, which portray character types,
and we watched closely as a dancer applied her white face make-up layer upon layer, topping her costumed self with the traditional wig.
The shamisen is a beautiful stringed instrument which makes a sound we recognized as distinctly "Japanese."

Quote of the day, offered by the theater professional who has seen Western audiences become restless with the pace of Japanese classical dance: “If you think the music and dance are too slow, you might be watching it too fast.” So we practiced really listening and looking with a more meditative mind set.

*An “urban agglomeration” is “all contiguous territory inhabited at urban density levels, without regard to administrative boundaries,” which may include areas not officially within city boundaries.

We Are Here!

2006-10-03T16:45:00.000-07:00

We were like a bunch of tired puppies upon arrival in Tokyo, a little disoriented but very excited nonetheless. A good night's sleep and I am ready for the first "real" day..... Our hotel is very modern, with every convenience and a view of the city in every direction. I did manage to take an early morning walk around a nearby university, and was glad to find local signs in Japanese and English so I could navigate fairly easily. This will be a brief posting today, mostly pictures. Enjoy!

Long Day But Exciting

2006-10-01T21:03:00.000-07:00

The day dawned at Logan Airport; it ended with a lively reception and dinner at a San Francisco airport hotel for all of us heading for Tokyo tomorrow. The afternoon was filled with interesting facts about the JFMF program (91% of us are public school educators, 9% private school; 98.5% of us have no prior direct experience of Japan) and good advice from teachers who have participated previously (go with the flow, take advantage of unexpected experiences that come your way, be prepared for a new bathtime experience during your home stay, try carefully to observe Japanese customs while knowing that your hosts will be extremely gracious no matter what you do, have fun but always be on time for the bus!). We are ready.

We had a special welcome from Kazuyoshi Yamaguchi, Consulate General of Japan in San Francisco, who welcomed us with enormous good humor and reinforced the value of person-to-person exchanges in maintaining good will among nations. Each of us felt a bit like an ambassador, and indeed that is what we are. The Government of Japan made a decision, ten years ago when the JFMF program began, to invest in educators as their guests in this endeavor, honoring the Japan-U. S. relationship begun by over 7,000 Japanese nationals who have studied in the United States as Fulbright Scholars.

Up Up & Away Today

2006-10-01T02:18:00.000-07:00

Okay. So I am about to travel west to get east. I will catch an airplane at Logan Airport in Boston this morning (Sunday) at 8:30 a.m., landing in San Francisco at 11:30 a.m. after flying for about six hours. Then tomorrow (Monday) the JFMA group will leave San Francisco at 1:30 p.m. and arrive at Narita Airport in Tokyo at about 4:30 p.m,, but it will be Tuesday, October 3 already! We cross the International Dateline in the Pacific, where the date is suddenly the next day! So Japan is well "ahead" of us, a fact I can understand better if I think about traveling east, over the Atlantic Ocean where the sun comes up and time comes earlier, and arriving in Japan that way. Confused? Get a globe... I need one!

I am very, very excited, as you can imagine, and I hope you will peek at this blog now and again to follow my travels!

You CAN Get There From Here!

2006-09-28T19:29:00.000-07:00

Yesterday and today in third and sixth grade library classes we took a digital trip from Lawrence School to Tokyo and back in mere moments! Using the powerful Google Earth program (downloadable free from the Internet; just Google "Google Earth"), we hovered above North America, zoomed in on the United States, then New England, then Massachusetts, then Boston and Brookline, ending with a close rooftop view of Lawrence School. Then after entering "Tokyo Japan" in the "Fly To" box, we lifted off, as if in a space shuttle perhaps, and zoomed west across the continent, across the grand Pacific Ocean and zoomed in on the heart of Tokyo. We meandered west along the streets a bit to view the Imperial Palace, noticing its moat and gardens. The photographic satellite images in 3-D were amazing; one could almost reach out and touch the terrain and tall buildings. The flying time was less than a minute for a journey that will take 17 hours in a regular plane. However, tonight as I think about it with my trip just a few days away, what a remarkable experience it is to be able to fly aloft and travel long, long distances quickly (even seventeen hours seems quickly in the scheme of things, doesn't it?).

A Week and Counting

2006-09-24T22:10:00.000-07:00

It is hard to believe that a week from today I will join 199 other American educators in San Francisco for the first step in our Japan adventure! We will perch briefly on the western shore of the United States, ready to board a plane the next day to fly across the Pacific Ocean to Tokyo, Japan's capital city. Judging by the flurry of emails among us, our group is a very lively and interesting group of teachers -- all kinds of teachers (art teachers, classroom teachers, English and history teachers, physical education teachers, librarians like me) and administrators, from all over the United States -- who have read and studied and planned for months and are now really ready to go. Well, almost! I for one still need every moment of this week to attend to details at home and school, but nothing diminishes the excitement of the trip. My friend Jamie knew her bank could exchange dollars for yen on the spot, so I have some Japanese money (pictured below), and I have my new "indoor slippers" (you probably know that street shoes are not worn into Japanese homes and special places). Of course, I have had my passport ready for a while, and I just received yesterday the bilingual business cards we are expected to carry with us -- English on one side, Japanese on the other. Pretty cool.

Traveler

2006-09-17T10:50:00.000-07:00

I am Librarian at the Amos A. Lawrence School in Brookline, Massachusetts USA. Lawrence is a K-8 public school in a community adjacent to the city of Boston. Reading about Japan in advance of my October trip has been fun and informative. I know that actually being in Japan will be even more exciting. Enjoy following my travels with the JFMF group!

What is a JFMF Scholar?

2006-09-12T18:53:00.000-07:00

Each year the Japanese Fulbright Memorial Fund (JFMF) Teacher Program, sponsored by the Government of Japan, awards a number of American educators the opportunity to travel and study in Japan for three weeks. Almost a year ago, I wrote a proposal describing what I hoped to learn about Japan and how I would integrate my study and travel experience into the library curriculum and classrooms at Lawrence School. Six months later I received word that I had been selected as a JFMF Scholar! I deeply appreciate the support of Brookline Public Schools administrators and others who encouraged me to apply. Designed to increase understanding between the people of Japan and the United States, the program will be intensive and very exciting, filled with visits to different kinds of schools, cultural institutions and government groups -- and, of course, historic sites. For me, it is especially exciting because our elementary school is home to Brookline's Japanese English Language Learners Program. We have many children in our classrooms and families in the community who share my excitement about traveling in Japan and will welcome my increased understanding of Japanese culture and education.

To paraphrase JFMF's program description: The Japan Fulbright Memorial Fund Teacher Program was established to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Fulbright Program — a U.S. government-initiated project created in 1946 to foster mutual understanding through exchanges of university students, faculty and researchers. Many Japanese recipients of Fulbright scholarships became government, business, and academic leaders instrumental in the post-war redevelopment of Japan. To show the Japanese people's appreciation for the Fulbright Program, the Government of Japan established the Japan Fulbright Memorial Fund, now in its tenth year. Its focus on primary and secondary education reflects the value of internationalizing curricula at early levels, and of providing opportunities for international experience to those who teach young people.