Lasting Impressions

Perhaps the important question related to cultural exchange is what permanent impressions visitors carry home. Now, weeks after my JFMF educators’ trip to Japan, several impressions linger: the consistent and friendly courtesy to foreigners (especially from people on the street when asked questions); the magnificent art of shopkeeping (from street vendors to Ginza department stores); people’s pace in Tokyo (whew), the positive energy present in elementary school classrooms (verging on cheerful chaos sometimes!); the “green” practice of eliminating waste and disposables such as paper napkins (which also seems to minimize general littering); a certain unease at the child-centeredness of the educational process and post-educational years (I am not sure the United States has a similar habit of healthy introspection); a self-consciousness about nationalism and Japan’s world role (we seem less cautious in exhibiting our nationalism); and yet a fierce loyalty to family and nation (I found it admirable in a relativistic world). I am obviously neither an historian nor a scholar; I am a teacher/visitor who delighted in becoming better acquainted with a complex culture with ancient roots and contemporary verve, grateful to be given a stellar experience. I take great pleasure in sharing it with my school community, friends and family. The interest the Japanese community at my school has shown in my trip and impressions has delighted me, as modest as I feel about my brief experience. The very best result has been the obvious joy Japanese children in my library classes show when I conduct a Japan-based curriculum (smiles and shouts of recognition, giggles of familiarity, and always a willingness to interpret a sign or a situation I might be trying to explain). Perhaps that’s the bottom line: creating familiarity and understanding by building bridges between cultures and human experiences, celebrating our similarities and honoring our differences.

200 Teachers; 200 Stories

On our last full day in Japan, our ten city groups came together to share reflections on our travels. Two hundred American teachers, from all fifty states, expressed gratitude and continued awe even as our journeys drew to a close. Each of us had a favorite story (the host family who fulfilled unspoken wishes, the shopkeeper who solved a gift problem, the new teacher friend who was on hand at a moment of uncertainty, the hilarity of confused results from sign language), and we all had opinions about what we saw in classrooms and byways. Overall, the generosity, kindnesses, thoughtful conversation, and curiosity about our lives in the United States that we experienced from the Japanese was valued by all of us, and definitely made us want to return for a longer look at Japan. As we wrapped up with "city reports" (parts of which were a tad silly due to twenty newly-acquainted adults spending 24/7 together for a long time), we pledged to share as much as possible of our experiences with those at home, in our schools and families. What an enormous privilege it was for each of us to spend nearly three weeks in Japan as guests of the government. What a responsibility to convey what we learned! None of us is an expert but we are ready and willing to share what we experienced. Be warned: ask and you shall hear!

Symbols: Chrysanthemums & The Emperor

The other day I took a walk to the Imperial Palace area in Tokyo. While the Imperial Palace, home of Japan's emperor and imperial family, is open to the public only two days a year, visitors can walk around the gardens. Japan's imperial family is the oldest hereditary monarchy in the world, dating back to the sixth century BC. The family crest is the kiku -- chrysanthemum. I saw chrysanthemums all over the city of Tokyo -- in flower boxes, on pillars and posts, on the 50 yen coin, embroidered on handtowels alongside an image of the main government building called the Diet, shown in real life below with a visiting school group. Japan is a parlimentary political system with two chambers in its governing body, rather like the United States Congress. The major party in the Diet appoints the prime minister. The emperor has no direct power in the government but is a "symbol of the state", playing a largely ceremonial part in the nation's life.

Rooftops

This will be a short and sweet blog entry. While today we heard lively and fascinating reports from all ten "host city" groups, too much was said and shared for me to digest before our final banquet tonight. So I will simply show some pictures of rooftops that are characteristic of residential, castle or temple architecture in the region I have been. I love looking at the graceful curves of the tiles and eaves. The round design on the end of an edging tile is often a symbol for the family in the house. As I understand it, most of the roof tiles are made of sand and clay; the most-used colors are earth tones, blue and orange. They are distinctive indeed, and very beautiful!

First Business, Then Bonsai and Baths

Monday morning we headed for the local community center to meet with school parents, representatives of the Ikeda-city PTA. What an interesting session! We were able to ask all sorts of questions about the role of the parents’ organization in Japanese schools and about parent-teacher relationships, at least in this community. And in turn the Japanese parents had many questions about our schools and classrooms, their first one being “Are teachers respected in the United States?” Predictably, that got a variety of responses, but in general I think teachers felt respected within our schools but as a profession we struggle for adequate acknowledgement. Having spent the previous week in public schools in the community, we were in a reasonably good position to reflect on issues presented, though in no way did we feel like experts. In general, Japanese parents seem to have more limited access to teachers and classrooms during the school day, and perhaps less of a feeling of input to the workings of the school. They had lots of queries about discipline, about students with special attention needs, about whether parents can make individual requests for teachers and so on. We American teachers realized that our schools vary widely in such things as class sizes, style of our principals and parents’ roles in our schools. I felt very proud to be from a community where respect -- student to student and student to teacher -- is valued greatly, where the parent-teacher organization is active, and where we receive generous support.

The rest of the day was for bonsai, bathing, and bonding with our group of ten travelers as we near the end of our trip. We traveled to the northern section of our host city, into the mountainous park area known for chattering monkeys who beg for money, put coins in the vending machines but are then stumped when trying to open the cans! We spent time at a beautiful bonsai shop, learning from the proprietor how bonsai (“pot of tree”) are started and maintained. I found myself wondering if a Brookline window would be a suitable place for bonsai. Hmmm…

We then headed for Fushiokaku, a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn), featuring outstanding “public” baths and great food. After our somewhat modest hotel stay, this experience was a real treat. Slippers and robes were provided (which guests wear the entire time). We were served green tea and cookies on a low table in ours rooms immediately upon arrival. By dinnertime our room had been transformed to a sleeping area with futons and wonderful puffs. Most of us headed directly for the hot baths after tea and again after supper. The baths were outside under the sky and, later, stars; there were warm baths, warmer baths, and really hot baths! Dinner was a proper banquet. We had fun getting to know our roommates better than ever, sort of like summer camp. The whole experience was a superb remedy for many hours of meetings, walking, and riding buses. Our Japanese-style breakfast this morning (Tuesday) was amplified by American choices including green salad and pasta, which I skipped knowing that all too soon I will no longer wake up to seaweed, rice and warm soup. Before breakfast I took an early morning walk in the residential mountainside neighborhood, dodging bicycles, motor bikes and cars on the steep narrow road and enjoying watching kids trundling off to school with backpacks, just like kids at home.

By noon we were on the bullet train back to Tokyo, for one last chance to visit the favorite spots we had discovered in this huge and amazing city. Tomorrow, the ten JFMF groups, which have spent the past ten days in different parts of Japan, will come together to report on their adventures. I am really looking forward to hearing about everyone's experiences! Our enthusiastic group rehearsed our presentation (I am a samurai) while on the train today but we got too boisterous and had to cut our rehearsal short out of respect for our fellow Japanese travelers.

A Golden Day

Today (Sunday) my host and I were up and off, after an American breakfast of eggs, bacon, toast (with blueberry jam -- a favorite of both Noriko and me), fruit and yoghurt. I was delighted to be anticipating a trip to Kyoto. On our way to the Hankyu train line we walked through the nearby residential neighborhood and then down the length of the Ishibashi shopping street, a typical colorful, varied pedestrian avenue of small local shops carrying every imaginable product -- seaweed, rice crackers, clothing, sandals... My kind of heaven, such fun to look. I often take a long walk on Sunday mornings at home, and the pleasure was the same here today: watching the world wake, with some people heading for work but most seeming to feel the weekend leisure. (Be warned: I plan to do a separate reflection soon on shopping in Japan; it is a major activity, at least in the cities where I have been.)

Our travels today took us to major notable sites in Kyoto. There are more shrines and temples per square foot than you can possibly imagine. The torii gate near the Heian Jingu was brilliant in the sunlight. I took a moment to record the translation at the entrance to the Buddhist temple, perhaps the most zen moment of my trip (which was overall more active than reflective): (This) "Is the road to respectable affability toward Chionin temple; Is the road to encounter Master Honen; It is also the route to obtain the way of Buddhism. For the old, the weak, women, children are lead to brightness, peaceful, and the meaning of life by collecting wisdom from the Buddha. To free tiresome beings, to let them gain dignity, and to accept the true happiness ingenuously. This is, Buddhism." Tiresome beings, we surmised, means people fatigued by life's cares. I felt renewed and hopeful.

I don't have time to tell you about the Golden Pavilion (nickname for Rokuon-ji Temple), former home of a shogun ("big boss of many warriors"). I will just say that it was shining brightly in the late afternoon sun, capturing the dignified splendor of much that is Japan. I need to return to Kyoto and linger longer.

As I left to return to Hotel Crevette, Noriko shook my hand and said "Kiwo tsukete" (take care). I felt very welcomed by her and by her husband. I resolved to look into the home stay program in our community, a wonderful way to welcome international visitors.

Tonight we will spend at a ryokan, a traditional inn, before returning to Tokyo tomorrow. Another adventure in store!

At Home in Ikeda-city

I am back from two days of a home stay with Sotaro and Noriko Kohiro in their lovely home in Ikeda-city. Mr. Kohiro is a retired business man; Noriko takes care of their home and enjoys singing in a women`s chorus. Some years ago, as part of his work in the textile business, they lived in New York and Los Angeles, their two daughters attended American schools, and thus they are very familiar with American life. We had a great time making observations about America and Japan, ranging from speculations about serious topics such as our military forces and North Korea to whether Matsuzaka will be bought by the Dodgers, the Yankees, the Mariners or the Red Sox! I hope the Red Sox, as his reputation in Japan is truly stellar. That led to a discussion of sports salaries. I learned that premier Japanese sumo wrestlers and others have their salaries adjusted according to their performance regularly, not obtaining multi-year packages that sometimes don't seem related to performance. Hmmmm......

Our first stop Saturday afternoon was at the local public library. Mr. Kohiro demonstrated the catalog and reserve system that allows him to be, proudly, the first reader of new books that arrive at the library. It was fun to see a book by Anthony Browne front and center, as well as a mind-boggling collection of over 300 kamishibi (traditional Japanese story card books, presented as theater). Only a librarian could be fascinated by the classification system that was used (almost Dewey but not quite). In the series of American biographies done in comic book form, I found Brookline's favorite son JFK, and my host was suitably impressed that he was born in our town. The library was busy as could be; Mr. Kohiro asked the head librarian where kamishibi might be purchased. We were given the name of the premier bookstore chain, Kinokuniya, which had a nearby branch. I located (with Kohiro's advice regarding the best traditional tales) a half dozen excellent kamishibi to bring back to the Lawrence library, with second grade particularly in mind. Next: a long uphill walk to Kiyoshi Koujin temple, stopping for absolutely delicious soba (buckwheat) noodles at a small shop along the way.
Even the tea was made of buckwheat, a sort of toasty flavor I enjoyed a lot, and we watched soba noodles being made by an enthusiastic young man -- quite a process. There were many locations on the temple grounds to request a blessing. I asked for help with headaches, and fire protection for our home (the special purpose of this temple) as well as personal blessings for those I love. Surely I will continue in good health despite the abysmal fortunes I drew each time I paid 100 yen! I guess happiness and health can't be bought...

Noriko served a wonderful supper Saturday night -- beef, carrots and potatoes as well as "scattered sushi" -- rice with shrimp and vegetables, and we shared pictures and stories of our families. Yes, I did manage a satisfying Japanese bath before bed, following the training instructions we received from our wise and forthcoming guide Keiko-san (wash and rinse completely first, outside the tub, then enjoy your soak in the tub, and don't pull the plug because other family members will soak after you). I couldn't figure out how it would work until I was actually doing it; it worked because there was a drain in the bathroom floor, a fact that made all the difference. I guess cultural puzzles have a way of working out if you pay attention and ask questions and aren't too afraid to seem stupid! I tumbled onto a futon bed on a tatami mat floor, in the Japanese living room (zashiki) available to guests, and slept soundly. A beautiful temple had a place of honor in the zashiki, containing remembrances of Kohiro's mother and other ancestors.

Home Stay Here We Come!

This morning (Saturday) each of us heads off on a home stay, for two days, with a local family. I had the chance to meet my host the other night, and I am looking forward to this opportunity to visit with his family. We will walk around their neighborhood this afternoon and visit the public library; tomorrow we will go to Kyoto or Nara. I will probably not post a blog for several days, but I recommend you take a look at the map of Japan to the right, or check out what time it is here and imagine what I might be up to. Please note that I have activated the "comments" link at the end of each blog, so please let me know your thoughts and comments about anything you have read! While I am a neophyte in Japanese matters, I will certainly attempt to respond if I can to any questions. Meanwhile, be well.

Junior High School

Friday bright and early Mr. Akihiro Ichida welcomed us to Ikeda Junior High School, encompassing Grades 7-9 in American terms but described as Grades 1-3 in Japan. This particular junior high is affiliated with Osaka Kyoiku University (which we visited the other day), regularly receives student teachers and is considered a pioneer for new teaching strategies in Japan. At the beginnning of each day of formal meetings for our group, one of us serves as speaker for the day and presents our group to our hosts. Today was my day, and I offered the hope that in exchange for the kindness of the school in welcoming us, their teachers would one day visit our schools.
We received gifts celebrating the 60th anniversary of the school, and learned about the four pillars of education guiding the school: subject study (9 subject areas), moral education, special activities, and interpretive learning. Classes are 40 in size (our hosts maintained, and we agreed, that that is too many!). Every student does individual research -- in order to explore, express (articulate one's own ideas about a subject) and present a topic. For 480 students, there are 22 regular and 4 part time teachers, all of whom are extremely busy people. The student council is active, and voluntary after school activities are packed. Building international understanding is a major goal of the school; they maintain a regular exchange program with Brisbane, Australia, as well as with schools in neighboring Asian countries. Language was a challenge in Australia (which even I could sympathize with), but the trips are always successful! Students also go on 2-3 day excursions within Japan, to increase their understanding of Japanese culture, including especially peace education efforts in Nagasaki and Okinawa. The heart of our day was attending and fully participating in classes.
In English class I was invited to tell about my school and my life in Boston (including the Red Sox of course, and at lunchtime one young man came over to show me his Red Sox mug). I was honored that the teacher specifically provided a map of the United States, a rare occurrence (most of the maps we see are, of course, of Japan and Asia, or world maps with Asia appropriately at the center).
Students presented language quizzes in English: "I am an animal. I bark when I speak. What am I?" In science, the teacher did a masterful demonstration of opposing forces.
In the media center, students were creating web pages, in English, of notable sites in Osaka, the URL of which I will obtain so we can view their travel advice back in the States. Following our time with students, we met back with administrators and teachers, sharing perspectives on education. We had many questions -- about cram schools, about student discipline, about nurturing young people for productive lives. I can't capture the extent and nature of our discussions here but it was most interesting!

Several of us ended the day with a trip to Sensi-chuou on the monorail -- had a take-out supper from the food floor of a large department store, caught a band on the plaza, and headed home.

Comments on Customs

Question: Many, many Japanese adults ride bicycles -- to work, to do their shopping, to meet friends. Why do you suppose bicycles are used so frequently? I will share my own thoughts in a later blog entry!

Someone once said, "If you have been in Japan for two weeks, you can write a book. If you have been there for two months, you can write an article. If you have been there for twenty years you can write a paragraph." I understand completely the sense of this quote. Japan is a fascinating and very complex culture, and one which I have entirely enjoyed experiencing. I am listing here, with humility, some customs I have observed, and I welcome your comments!

Bowing when greeting, whether it is an attendant welcoming a passenger onto an elevator or family friends meeting for dinner.

Always, always ending a helpful exchange with “Domo arigato” (“Thank you”).

Keeping to the left on a stairway or sidewalk, echoing the traffic pattern of cars on the streets. Our guide explained today that this custom began when samurai warriors, whose swords rested on their left sides in order to be drawn by their right hands, stayed to the left so they could be ready to confront those to their right.

Always waiting for the green light to cross the street. No one jaywalks!

When a purchase is made, credit card, cash and change are placed on a small tray between the purchaser and clerk while the transaction is completed.

Storing dripping umbrellas in a waterproof sheath when entering a building.

When asked directions, the always-courteous citizen is willing to help and walks with you toward your destination until it is clear you know where you are going.

Removing street shoes to wear slippers in homes, museums or other special places.

Carrying a handkerchief, not for blowing your nose but for using as a handtowel after washing one’s hands.

Holding up two fingers in a “victory” (or “peace”) sign when saying “Hi!” for the camera.

Leaving bicycles unlocked, with the knowledge they will be there when you return.

What else might you know about Japanese customs??

Itabashi Elementary School -- What a Day!

Well, this may have been my favorite day so far in Japan (though it would be hard to decide for sure). We caught the bus at 7:15 a.m. heading to Itabashi Elementary School, one of eleven public elementary schools (Grades 1-6) in the Ikeda-city district. Thus we were right on hand as children started to arrive. We were greeted and we greeted in return: “Ohayo gozaimasu! Ohayo gozaimasu!” Here is George, an art teacher in our group, giving handshakes, an American custom as opposed to the customary Japanese bow we usually return.

Once a week the entire student body of 498 meets in the playing field outside (weather permitting) for an assembly; we visitors were the stars of today’s gathering. All day long we felt the warmth and enthusiasm of the students and teachers. The principal, Mr. Fujiwara, gave us a quick tour of the school building (which had many of the aspects of Lawrence School but with a different spin, which I think I’ll need to save to explain when I return) before we started on our day of class visits and full participation in school activities. I first went to class 3-1 (one section of third grade) where each child introduced him or herself in English, and stated what they especially enjoyed. Many, many students declared baseball, though oranges were a second favorite! I was very glad to be able to show them pictures of Fenway Park, Lawrence School and my home and family. They exclaimed loudly when they saw our family’s red Victorian house, as there is really nothing like it in Japan. Then I attended a second grade class for several subjects – reading in Japanese, a test on kanji and math. There were many similarities with a school day at Lawrence but also differences. There are cubbies in the classroom, plus cubbies in the hallway for a change of clothes for sports and a separate cubby for musical instruments (a small keyboard for second grade). The daily schedule was posted, along with class duties.
The students themselves served hot lunch in the classroom, and they then cleaned up the entire classroom, moving desks around, sweeping and wiping all the surfaces. Other grade levels cleaned hallways and bathrooms! Teachers remained in the classrooms for lunch, and stayed with students for recess and sports, too. It was great fun to visit a class doing calligraphy (part of the language program), one practicing sumo,
several fantastic music classes (instrumental and vocal) and one home economics class where boys and girls were ironing and sewing. I was overjoyed to get a chance to spend time in the library, a welcoming place visited each week by each class, and talk with the library teacher. She was delighted to receive a copy of Make Way for Ducklings (in English) as a token of my visit.


We ended the day by asking the principal many questions about his school. In response to the question “Of what are you most proud about your school?,” he replied instantly that the school receives the most heavily handicapped students, and other students are considerate, gentle and loving, always with open hearts for those who are handicapped. The faculty was quite young overall, and he told us that after five years teachers must change schools, as part of their growing experience. We also learned that the sixth graders climb Mt. Fuji during their final year, and that fifth graders plant, weed and harvest the crop of a rice paddy over the course of their year.

It is not possible to convey the energy and enthusiasm present at Itabashi Elementary School. It reminded me a great deal of Lawrence School!